#Painting blood bowl orcs cheap skin#
#Painting blood bowl orcs cheap series#

A highlight of Eshin Grey was applied to all black area. The right pauldron, claws and glove were basecoated with Vallejo Model Color Black. The eyes were painted with Wazdakka Red, then highlighted with Pink Horror and Vallejo Game Color Squid Pink.

#Painting blood bowl orcs cheap skin#

A final highlight of pure RMS Fair Skin was applied only on the most prominent features – knuckles, nose, lips.Ģ3. I applied another, even lighter layer on the skin, with pure RMS Tanned Highlights.

#Painting blood bowl orcs cheap series#

A mix of Tallarn Flesh and Reaper Master Series Tanned Highlights was used to build up the highlights for the skin.Ģ2. Then, I layered Tallarn Flesh, leaving the recesses dark from the wash.Ģ1. The skin was washed with old Ogryn Flesh. I used the feathering technique for the transition between fur and skin.ġ9. I basecoated the skin with two coats of thinned Tallarn Flesh. Pegasus relabeled some Reaper paints for the German market, so don’t mind the label.ġ8. A highlight for the clothes was built up with two thinned coats of Reaper Master Series Polished Bone. Dheneb Stone was then used to clean up.ġ7.

You might need to get out the Trollblood Highlight again to smooth the transition.ġ6. A second stage of shading was applied with P3 Bastion Grey. Recesses and folds were shaded with Formula P3 Trollblood Highlight. The clothes were painted with a couple of thin layers of old Dheneb Stone. The metal was edge highlighted with Warpaints Plate Mail Metal. Next, only the most prominent strands of fur were highlighted with pure Beast Hide.ġ2. Muscles and fur were further highlighted with a mix of Scorched Brown and Formula P3 Beast Hide. Once dry, Scorched Brown was layered over the muscles and fur.ġ0. Both fur and metal were washed with Warpaints Dark Tone Ink. Then, the fur was basecoated with old Scorched Brown, and the metal with Gun Metal. Small dots of Warpaints Gun Metal were applied at the larger chinks in the armour. Next, an even thinner edge highlight of Lugganath Orange was applied.ħ. The armour and a couple of the larger chinks were highlighted with old Fiery Orange. Wipe any excess paint and don’t overdo the effect.ĥ.

Then, a small piece of blister sponge was ripped off, dabbed into paint and carefully “stamped” on the armour to add a chipped armour effect – this technique is called sponge weathering. Vallejo Game Color Dark Fleshtone was painted directly into the recesses of the armour. This will take a few layers for an even coverage.Ĥ. Multiple thin coats of Army Painter Lava Orange were applied over the orange basecoat. This will save you some layers of Lava Orange later.ģ. The orange armour was basecoated with two thin coats of old Macharius Solar Orange. Once the primer was dry, the texture of the base was heavily drybrushed with Terminatus Stone, then washed with Army Painter Strong Tone Ink. Stock black primer would work as well, but a brown basecoat will improve the coverage for most paints later used in this tutorial. You could also use Mournfang Brown spray paint from Games Workshop, or any other brown primer. The model was primed with Leather Brown Color Primer from The Army Painter. In case you need to expand your paint collection, head over to Wayland Games, which stock a huge selection of paints at competitive prices.ġ.